5 Reasons Why Your Dryer Is Not Spinning but Heating

Image
Register Appliance
July 31, 2024
Dryer Repair

If your dryer is heating but not spinning, this article will guide you through five potential causes and solutions to get it working properly again. We’ll approach this logically, starting with the simplest checks and progressing to more complex repairs. There’s no point in disassembling your machine right away if you don’t need to!

To carry out the repairs below, you may need:

  • Screwdriver
  • Socket wrench
  • Pliers with insulated handles
  • Multimeter

1. Foreign object caught in the drum

Start by checking if the drum spins freely or is jammed. To do this, open the dryer door when the machine is off and cool, then manually spin the drum using the paddles inside.

Ask yourself:

  1. Does the drum spin freely?
  2. Is there significant resistance?
  3. Does it not spin at all?

If the drum isn’t spinning freely or there is a lot of resistance, inspect the holes and perforations in the drum for stuck items such as zippers, keys, hair clips, or laundry.

Also, check around the inside edge of the drum near the door frame for caught objects. Remove any items you find, using pliers if necessary.

A drum that doesn’t spin freely can also be caused by seized drum bearings or worn drum rollers. However, these are more complex repairs that we’ll address later.

2. The drive belt has snapped or slipped off

If you can spin the drum by hand, but it’s not spinning when you run the dryer, the drive belt may have snapped or slipped off the drum. Drive belts naturally wear over time, so a broken or slipped belt is a fairly common issue with dryers.

A telltale sign is when you can hear the motor running and the machine heats, but the drum doesn’t spin. However, to confirm whether there’s an issue with the drive belt, you’ll need to look inside the dryer.

To inspect the drive belt, follow these steps:

  1. Unplug the dryer for safety.
  2. Remove the lint filter and the two screws underneath it. (This only applies if the lint filter is on the top of your dryer.)
  3. Remove any other screws securing the top panel, then pry, lift, or slide the top panel off.
  4. Once the top panel is removed, you should be able to see the top of the drum and whether the drive belt is wrapped around it.
  5. Spin the drum to inspect the entire length of the drive belt.
  6. If the drive belt is frayed, split, or completely broken, it will need replacing.
  7. If it has slipped off the drum but is not damaged, refitting it around the drum, idler pulley, and motor should make your dryer spin again.
  8. If you need to replace or refit the drive belt, you’ll also need to remove the front panel for access.

3. Worn or seized drum bearing or drum rollers

We’ve grouped these together because they can both cause similar symptoms: a drum that is hard to turn manually or won’t turn at all. You’ll want to check both, and you can do so simultaneously.

The rear drum bearing, located at the back of the drum, supports the drum and enables it to spin smoothly. The drum rollers are located underneath the drum and support its weight, which helps it to spin freely.

Both can wear out over time, accumulate lint or debris, and even seize up completely. This creates excessive friction that overwhelms the motor, preventing it from spinning the drum. You may also hear grinding or scraping sounds when rotating the drum manually.

To check the rear drum bearing and drum rollers, follow these steps:

  1. Unplug the dryer for safety.
  2. Remove the lint filter and the two screws underneath it. Then remove the top panel.
  3. Remove any screws securing the front panel, then remove it.
  4. Release the tension on the drive belt by pushing the idler pulley toward the motor, then remove the drive belt.
  5. Remove the drum by lifting it out of the dryer cabinet.
  6. Locate the rear drum bearing at the center of the drum’s back. Remove it by unscrewing the two (or three) screws holding it in place.
  7. Inspect the rear bearing for damage, such as cracks, grooves, rust, discoloration, or metal shavings. If damaged, replace it.
  8. Inspect the drum rollers inside the dryer cabinet. They typically sit under the drum and look like rubber wheels; there are usually two to four of them.
  9. If any drum rollers look worn or damaged, or don’t spin freely when turned by hand, replace the entire set of drum rollers, not just one.
  10. To fit new drum rollers, unbolt the old ones and bolt the new ones in place using a socket wrench.

4. Faulty heating element and thermal fuse

Issues with the heating element and thermal fuse can be linked, resulting in a dryer that heats but doesn’t spin. If the heating element is faulty but still heats, it can short-circuit, causing the thermal fuse to blow. This cuts power to the motor but not to the heating element.

Many people report that replacing both the heating element and thermal fuse fixes the problem. Replacing only the thermal fuse often results in it blowing again due to the faulty heating element that’s shorting.

Here’s how to check and replace the heating element and thermal fuse:

  1. Ensure the dryer is unplugged for safety.
  2. Remove the screws or bolts securing the rear panel to access the thermal fuse and heating element. Some dryers may require the removal of the top or front panels.
  3. Locate the thermal fuse on or near the blower housing. It’s a small component with two wires connected to it.
  4. Disconnect its wires and unscrew or unbolt it to remove it.
  5. Locate the heating element. It’s usually housed in a cylindrical or rectangular metal casing at the bottom or side of the dryer’s back.
  6. Remove the heating element by disconnecting its wires. Take a picture before disconnecting to remember the wire placement. Then, remove any screws or bolts securing the heating element.
  7. Inspect the heating element for damage, signs of burning, discoloration, and bent or broken coils.
  8. If the heating element appears damaged, replace both it and the thermal fuse.

5. Faulty start capacitor

The start capacitor gives the motor extra “oomph” (power) when you have a heavy load in the drum, helping it start turning when you first run the dryer. It only assists with starting; it doesn’t run all the time, hence why it’s called the start capacitor.

A likely sign of a faulty start capacitor is when you can hear the motor trying to run, but the drum doesn’t rotate. Here’s how to inspect and replace the start capacitor:

  1. Ensure the dryer is unplugged.
  2. Remove the dryer’s back panel by unscrewing the screws holding it in place.
  3. Locate the start capacitor, a cylindrical component near the motor.
  4. WARNING: The start capacitor can hold an electric charge even when the dryer is unplugged. Do not touch it with your bare hands until you’ve discharged it to avoid electric shock.
  5. To discharge the capacitor, put on rubber gloves and grab some pliers with insulated handles. Press the pliers against both capacitor terminals at once for a few seconds. This shorts the capacitor, discharging any stored electricity.
  6. Disconnect the wires connected to the capacitor and remove any securing screws, then remove the start capacitor.
  7. Inspect it for signs of damage. If visibly damaged, replace it.
  8. Alternatively, test the capacitor with a multimeter set to capacitance mode.
  9. Compare the reading to the capacitance value printed on the capacitor. If the reading deviates significantly or is infinite or zero, replace the capacitor.
Spread the love

Leave a Reply